What is the benefit of NBE towards pigmentation?
Because the targeted heat activates the production of collagen in the dermis, and collagen inhibits the production of an enzyme that produces melanin? Is that correct or not?
Initially, we should leave that :
- The melanocyte (pigment cell) is located in the epidermis, more specifically just on top of the DEJ (dermo epidermal junction)
- Collagen production occurs in the fibroblast in the dermis (dermis). Depending on the type of collagen in the papillary dermis and reticular dermis. (There are some 26 types of collagen).
- Enzymes are proteins necessary to break down carbohydrates, fats and other proteins into, for the body, usable substances.
Example a carbohydrate is broken down into a sugar " glucose = energy ", proteins in turn into amino acids and fats into fatty acids and glycerol (glycerin).
Going back to the question, it could be true that when a carbohydrate is broken down by an enzyme, a sugar or sugar-related compound is formed that has anti-melanogenic effects on melanocytes (pigment cells). However, the process of this is not fully known and is still under study.
Conclusion: that enzymatic route is not the right approach in this case.
As explained, NBE treatment triggers a lot of processes in the skin. This both in the Epidermis, the dermis as well as in the subcutis.
The effect will also be noticeable at the level of the DEJ (dermo epidermal junction). The DEJ is an important layer that makes the connection between epidermis and dermis and between epidermis and hair follicle. On this DEJ are located the melanocytes that work in an optimally controlled manner or foraarde that the whole system was not damaged by over irradiation.
There is also a piece to this that a sugar contributes to the glycation phenomenon, which also has an impact on pigment cells and a stiffer collagen, but this would take us too far in this one and make this complex all the more complex.
As a basic principle, one should assume that the system works as follows:
UV radiation triggers a photosynthetic reaction.
Our brain issues the command via the ∂-MSH (alpha melano stimulating hormone) to the pigment cell.
If the receptor on the pigment cell (pro opio-melanocortin = POMC) receives this ∂-MSH, a cascade of chemical reactions (thyrosinase) occurs in the pigment cell, which in turn produces 2 types of melanin (EU-melanin and PHEO-melanin). These granules are transported by eater cells (phagocytosis) to the keratinocytes that take over the pigment, thereby protecting their cell nuclei.
NBE ensures that all possible biosynthetic reactions proceed optimally. This could be discussed further but would lead us too far.
The products used act at different levels with a multitude of different actives.
They are responsible for the following activities;
- Occurrence of receptor function from POMC to ∂-MSH
- Inhibition of thyrosinase activity in the pigment cell
- Accelerating cell division and exfoliation
- Inhibition of phagocytosis activity.
The fabrics used are:
- Watercress (contains glucosinolates which is strongly anti oxidative and counteracts glycation.
- Melanostatin; peptide opposing coupling of ∂-MSH
- Exozoom with a large collection of actives: less in % by the exozoom, but more potent in the DEJ.
o Azeloglicin; glycine, an amino acid linked to azeleic acid. Works anti-inflammatory and can be used for acne, inflamed skin and PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)
o Niacinamide (exfoliating and pigment-regulating)
o Vitamin C "ascorbic acid" (exfoliating and pigment regulating)
o Bisabolol (soothing and unifying).
o Phytic acid (Thyrosinase inhibitor).
Products to use:
- NBE Hyperpigmentation
- NBE Lifting (also contains a number of regulating substances that may contribute to its action on pigmentation)
- Stratum Symbiosum serum Vit D. (also further use at home)
- Stratum Symbiosum serum Pore Care. (also further use at home)
I'm going to stick to this. Hopefully somewhat understandable, but it is a very complex matherie and according to the severity of the UV damage inflicted, not always easy to treat within short notice.